Unravelling the Threads of Culture: India’s Rich History of Cotton

Summers in India have historically been, well, hot. So much so that during the days of the British Raj, the “hot weather" season presented an annual excuse for India’s princely elite to seek a leave of absence from the privileged drudgery that was life in their capitals! While the northern parts face scorching heat with the sun blazing down from the clear blue sky, the coastal regions face unrelenting humidity. At the same time, the western states of Gujarat and Rajasthan face intense heat. The nation's northeastern states and the hill stations of northern India provide a delightful respite in these conditions. 

Over the years, the people in India have adopted various strategies to cope with the heat. The traditional methods such as using jharokhas, baolis, matkis, and ayurvedic practices are deeply rooted in Indian culture and ancient wisdom. One such tradition that has continued to thrive (and even taken on new forms) is the use of breathable cotton fabric. 

A Journey Through Time

We continue to wear our most comfortable summer garments today, thanks to the ancient Indians' spinning and weaving of cotton. In 400 BCE, the Greek historian, Herodotus wrote in his book Historia: “In India, there are plants that produce sheep’s wool.”  Indeed, soft to the touch, light, and versatile, cotton has been prevalent in India since 4000 BCE. From Jayadhar cotton in Karnataka to Karunganni in Tamil Nadu and Punasa in Rajasthan, cotton was not only extensively used by the common people, it was also adapted to suit the varying climates and needs of the nation.

Subsistence farming using indigenous Indian cotton seeds
Source: madrasmusings.com

Cotton textiles were used for various occasions, including religious rituals, weddings, and festivals. Cotton garments, such as the sari for women and the dhoti for men, are integral parts of traditional attire in India.

Mahatma Gandhi with his spinning wheel that he called Kamdhenu
Source: Wikipedia Commons

Ancient Indian textiles show bright colours and busy patterns with exquisite attention to detail
Source: historiadelarteen.com

From a Symbol of Colonialism to the Fabric of Independent India

The arrival of the British brought significant changes to the textile industry of the nation, thereby affecting our culture and ways of living. Originally a subsistence crop, cotton now became a cash crop. With the introduction of spinning mills, time-honoured practices were disrupted and farmers and weavers were left with the plight of the European machines—the industrial machinery rendered obsolete short-staple cotton.

The intricate patterns of kalamkari on cotton fabric, which attracted foreigners to India, were exported to Europe during the 16th century, or the Mughal era
Source: Pinterest

The irony of all ironies, cotton became one of the first products exported from the West to the East! The British started exporting cotton thread to Lancashire and the woven, mill-made cotton would be exported back to India in bulk. This exploitation of India’s resources and consequent deindustrialisation of Indian cotton farmers laid the foundation for the Swadeshi Movement. This nationalist movement encouraged Indians to boycott British goods and promote indigenous products, including hand-spun and hand-woven cotton textiles (khadi). 

This is a Chintz jacket. Europeans traded these in enormous quantities from India back in 1498. These brightly coloured pieces of cotton from India impacted how Europeans dressed and furnished their houses.
Source: The Fabric Of India

A still from the Swadeshi Movement
Source: Getty Images

Thus, the humble cotton, once used for its availability, versatility, and suitability for the Indian climate had become a powerful symbol of India’s fight for Independence, shaping the nationalistic consciousness and mobilizing the masses towards freedom. 

Cotton in Couture 

Cotton remains a cherished fabric of Indian culture today.

India still makes its flags from Khadi material
Source: Getty Images

Not only is it used to make comfortable attire and decorative home furnishings, it is also a major export of the nation. Interestingly, cotton, specifically khadi made from it, is becoming the fabric of choice of designers. From Wendell Rodricks and Abu Jani to Rajesh Pratap Singh and Sabyasachi Mukherjee, with innovative cuts, silhouettes, and embellishments, various designers have given unassuming cotton a new spin.

Khadi fabric-made clothes featured in a fashion show
Source: Getty Images

With a growing emphasis on sustainable fashion, organic Indian cotton has gained popularity around the world due to its natural and biodegradable properties.

Cotton harvesting in a plantation
Source: Dinesh Khanna for C&A Foundation

In the tapestry of Indian culture, cotton occupies a special place. Once the fabric of comfort, showcasing the craftsmanship and artistry of Ancient India, it has become an emblem of resilience and sustainability. From the vibrant South Indian sarees to the intricate weaves of the northeast, cotton textiles continue to transcend time and trends, evoking a sense of shared heritage and elegance.

By Ira Sharma