The Nehru Jacket: A Timeless Piece of Indigenous Heritage

Step into the vibrant tapestry of Indian history, where a fascinating garment gracefully weaves itself into the fabric of Indian identity – the iconic Nehru jacket. No Indian can escape the sight of Jawaharlal Nehru, tall and dignified, donning his signature attire. However, the roots of this extraordinary piece reach far beyond Nehru's era, delving into ancient epochs.

The Nehru jacket, or the “Bandhgala" as Rajasthan's craftsmen call it, draws inspiration from the regal ensembles of Indian nobility and Mughal emperors. Its high mandarin collar and sleek, straight-cut design blend the essence of its predecessors with a distinctive identity. In the whispers of China's ancient pines, echoes of the Nehru jacket resonate. Referring to it as the “Mao suit", similar to Chairman Mao's attire, it traces its origins back to India's sartorial heritage. Destiny has woven a fascinating twist, placing India's clothing legacy at the forefront.


 Mao Zedong in the Mao jacket
Source: Powerhouse Museum collection. Photograph by Hou Bo

Named after Jawaharlal Nehru himself, captivated by the mandarin collar and slim-fit silhouette reminiscent of Western elegance, the Nehru jacket is a fusion masterpiece that embraces Indian heritage through traditional fabrics and intricate embroideries. In the bustling bazaars of Chandni Chowk, the extravaganza of Old Delhi, locals consider it more than just a fashion statement – it's a symbol of political empowerment and progressive ideals. Who knew a jacket could carry so much weight?


Nehru donning the jacket
Source: Getty Images

Thanks to endorsements from legendary figures like The Beatles (an acclaimed British rock band since the 1960s), the Nehru Jacket soared to global stardom, becoming a fashion statement across continents. With its gender-fluid appeal, it became a staple for those who want confidence with a touch of sophistication.


The Beatles wearing the Nehru Jacket

Source: CBS Photo Archive/Getty Images


Resplendent silk and intricate brocade bring this sartorial gem to life, uniting tradition and contemporary style. But innovation is the name of the game when it comes to the Nehru jacket. It's constantly reinventing itself with new fabrics, captivating embellishments, and creative expressions. From lightweight linen to luxurious velvet, it embraces a world of materials. And with intricate contemporary embroideries, prints, and ornate buttons, the jacket truly becomes a piece of art.

In the realm of fast fashion, where trends ebb and flow with the seasons, the Nehru jacket stands as an emblem of timeless elegance. It effortlessly harmonises tradition and contemporary allure, whether discovered at an end-of-season sale or showcased in high-end boutiques. From its humble origins in Indian attire to its global recognition and adaptation in the post-globalization era, it has withstood the test of time. Adorned with indigenous wisdom and cultural brilliance, this garment continues to weave a rich tapestry of Indian heritage. As the sun sets, casting its final rays upon this resplendent attire, allow it to wrap you in its allure, embodying the essence of India's cultural spirit. Like the Gandalf of fashion (the celebrated protagonist from ‘The Lord of the Rings’), the Nehru Jacket defies fads and remains steadfast in its grace.

By Anjali Batra


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