Buttons: From Ornamental Beginnings to Fusion of Art and Functionality

Have you ever wondered why Indian garments possess an undeniable charm that sets them apart? Look closely, and you'll discover the secret lies in the buttons adorning our attire. From the earthy terracotta buttons of ancient civilizations to the contemporary designs gracing our modern ensembles, these tiny ornaments have a fascinating history to share.

Archaeological excavations of the Indus Valley, dating back to around 2000 BCE, unveil buttons crafted from terracotta, bone, horn, wood, and shells. These ancient Indian craftsmen showcased their meticulous artistry, using these embellishments to enhance the allure of garments.


Oldest known button-like objects found at Mehrgarh in the Indus Valley and at Harappa
Source: Department of Archaeology and Museums, Pakistan / Harappa Archaeological Research Project / J. M. Kenoyer

Over time, buttons transcended their decorative origins, embracing functionality while retaining their elegant charm. During the illustrious Mauryan and Gupta dynasties, buttons assumed a regal role. Fashioned from precious metals like gold, silver, and bronze, and adorned with gemstones, these buttons epitomised grandeur and social status, reminiscent of a bygone era.


The Mughal era brought a revolution in Indian button-making. Skilled craftsmen transformed into artisans, fashioning buttons from gold and silver, adorned with intricate filigree work, delicate engravings, and sparkling gemstones. These exquisite buttons elevated ordinary clothing to regal attire.


Antique courtly Mughal silver inlaid buttons, circa 1880
Source: Michael Backman Ltd, London

India's regional cultures contributed a rich tapestry of diverse styles to button-making techniques. In Rajasthan, buttons shimmered like mirrors, reflecting the vibrancy of Ghagra Choli and Bandhani Sarees. Southern regions showcased buttons intricately carved from coconut shells and wood, highlighting artistic finesse and abundant resources. Every corner of India celebrated unique button motifs, techniques, and materials, creating a harmonious symphony of aesthetics.


Colonial encounters fused the East and West in Indian fashion. The British Raj introduced standardised designs and manufacturing techniques influenced by European fashion. Metal buttons seamlessly merged with India's artistic craftsmanship, symbolising the intertwined heritage of two worlds. Tradition and modernity converged in a congenial fusion.


The East India Company uniform buttons
Source: Royal Museum Greenwich

In contemporary India, buttons persist as the very threads interlacing innovation into the fabric of tradition. A delightful melange of materials—plastic, wood, fabric, and metal—converge, infusing ancient motifs with contemporary aesthetics.


Modern buttons in contemporary India infusing ancient motifs
Source: ETSY

Delicate, ornate, and steeped in history—the buttons adorning Indian garments are more than mere fasteners. With each fastening, buttons form tangible connections to the past while also heralding the evolution of Indian fashion. Amidst these countless fastenings, let's share a chuckle at the irony that something seemingly insignificant holds such immense cultural value.


By Anjali Batra


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